Last summer I spent a week backpacking on the Pacific Crest
Trail in Oregon. TONS of thru-hikers on the trail, and as we approached Mount
Hood, it seemed all they could talk about was the breakfast buffet at
Timberline Lodge: strategizing their schedule and pace and campsite locations to put
them at Timberline Lodge at breakfast time. Timberline isn’t the only place
where you can buy food along the PCT—at Olallie Lake Resort, for
instance, just a couple of days south of Mount Hood. But Timberline’s breakfast is a sit-down, all-you-can eat buffet, and that phrase—all you can eat—holds a particular
charm for people who have just spent three months walking 20+ miles every day
and burning who-knows-how-many calories. (Lifted that photo at Timberline from Tracy at hikergirl186.wordpress.com; I hope she doesn't mind!)
I don’t know of any all-you-can-eat places along the Oregon
Coast Trail, but part of the charm of the OCT is the accessibility of restaurants,
should you want to forego freeze-dry for a night or a morning. Literally
without leaving the trail (OK, walking a few steps or blocks), you have
access to great and not particularly expensive restaurants. The following is a list of eateries to consider adjacent to the OCT—not an exhaustive list, but places I
know and like. Be advised that an OCT thru-hiker of my acquaintance says she actually gained weight hiking the OCT. I spend most of my coastal time up north, where there are more
restaurants anyway, so the list is weighted that way. North to south …
Sand Trap, Gearhart: Just 14 miles from the
start of the trail and 0.3 mile off the beach, if you can’t go a single day on
the OCT without stopping for a brew. A McMennamin's pub (if that means anything to you).
The Stand, Seaside: The only place on this list that is not actually on the trail, but worth the slight detour. Open weekdays 11-5. Huge portions of great Mexican food, and a favorite spot among Seaside surfers.
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| OCT backpacker at Cannon Beach--Haystack Rock in the background. |
The Bald Eagle (for coffee and homemade soup), The Sleepy Monk (for coffee and
morning scones), Cannon Beach Hardware and Public House (burgers): Lots of
great places to eat in Cannon Beach; these three are clustered in midtown, near
the beach access east and slightly north of Haystack Rock.
Bread and Ocean (fabulous deli) and Buttercup (ice cream and
chowder), Manzanita. Haven’t been to Buttercup yet, but it gets great reviews;
menu is limited to variations on just those two items.
No idea what’s good in Rockaway or Garibaldi, but there’s no
shortage of options.
Roseanna’s Café, Oceanside: I find it a bit tired and
higher-priced than most on my list, but it’s right off the beach and may be the
only option for some miles.
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| Pelican Pub, Pacific City |
Pelican Pub, Pacific City: Right on the trail/beach, great beer
and food. There's also a grocery-deli across the street.
The Café at Hawk Creek, Neskowin: I knew and loved it as the
Hawk Creek Café; new incarnation might be a bit more expensive but still gets
great reviews. Great breakfasts and brick-oven pizza, among other things.
My favorite place to eat in Lincoln City (lunch and dinner) is
Blackfish Cafe, on US 101 0.7 miles south of where you would normally return to
the beach at the north end of town; a little higher-end but worth it. As you
leave, ask how to get back to the beach southbound. Plenty of other places to
eat in the mall you cross to return to the beach at the north end and again near
the D River beach access, but tend to be chains or touristy and I can’t make
any recommendations.
Side Door Café, Gleneden Beach: Haven’t been there for
several years, but I think it’s still good, and it’s maybe two blocks north of
the Gleneden Beach beach access.
Depoe Bay: I don’t know what’s good here now, but you will
be walking right through town; lots of options.
Rogue Ales, Newport: Right under the south end of the
Yaquina Bay Bridge. Great local beer, decent pub menu.
The Green Salmon, Yachats: Yummy bagels and lox, amazing variations
on hot cocoa.
1285 Restobar, Florence: Reach it via a slight detour into
Old Town. If you’re spending the night in Florence you could try its sister
restaurant, Waterfront Depot, but better make a reservation in advance (unless
there’s room at the bar).
Winchester Bay and Charleston: Plenty of chowder shops and
other eateries in these harbor towns, but none I know well enough to recommend.
And I’m not up to date on Bandon food,
but you’ll pass through Old Town, with lots of options, on your way to the
south jetty.
The Crazy Norwegian’s, Port Orford: I love the vibe and the
fish and chips in this small-town café; you’ll walk right by it. I look forward
to trying Redfish, a newer and upscale addition to town with an amazing view.
Biscuit Coffeehouse at Gold Beach Books, Gold Beach: I find
it hard to pass through Gold Beach without stopping here (for coffee and a
muffin, or to browse the books, or both); you might do the same if your route
takes you through town rather straight to the beach from the bridge over the
Rogue River.
